In an intimate, salon-style show, Paul Smith presented a men’s collection that celebrates the brand’s iconic tailoring and vibrant history. The Autumn/Winter ‘26 collection demonstrates magpie dressing at its best and is inspired by the joy of collecting treasures. Gathering stories and objects has long been central to Paul’s creative process. In true Smithy fashion, the collection ties together an eclectic range of influences – spanning from Paul’s personal archive to British bookworms and the bohemian world of artist Jean Cocteau.
Seeing the collection through fresh eyes became the guiding design principle, leading Paul to work closely with the recently appointed Head of Men’s Design, Sam Cotton, who he has mentored for many years. Inspiration came from numerous trips to the Paul Smith Nottingham-based archive, home to nearly 5,000 garments, created over 55 years in fashion. Revisiting some of Paul Smith’s most recognisable fashion shows and campaigns from the late 1980s and early 1990s, some of the brand’s most important tailoring silhouettes have been reimagined into a concise edit for the contemporary man. Collection highlights include deconstructed and inside-out details that reflect Paul’s long-time passion for interrupting the classics. Characterful use of Harris Tweed and Donegal fabrics carries British wit and charm throughout the collection.
Autumn/Winter ‘26 sees a curated approach to Paul’s signature use of colour, with deep autumnal shades offering a fresh canvas for punctuation marks of colour and archival prints. Combinations of prints, patterns and fabrics elevate the collection whilst paying homage to Paul’s career-long collection of stories. A constant source of inspiration comes from Paul’s father’s vast photography archive, with selected works printed onto shirting. Polka dots are another standout feature within the archive, playing with transparency and shadows that are juxtaposed with hand drawn pears, representing Paul’s playful approach to design. Painstakingly reworking garments from the inside out, linings are inspired by Paul’s love of Japanese colour theory.
Drawing inspiration from artists like Jean Cocteau, the collection feels lived in. United by a shared love of everyday uniforms, Cocteau was rarely seen in anything other than his signature shirt and tie while Paul is known for wearing a suit daily. Influenced by his dapper Parisian style, the collection showcases fresh sartorial motifs – layered cuffs, sheer fabrics, and even button covers – all contributing to the overarching theme of magpie dressing. The lived in approach also expands to the distressed treatment of the accessories with tumbled leather bags, belts and charms adorning the runway.
A master of storytelling, Paul expands his creative references beyond the collection, to music and set design. Paying homage to artist Colin Barnes, who captured some of the earliest Paul Smith designs in 1976, guests are greeted by a mural taken from his original artworks. Inside the Paul Smith Milan Headquarters, a playful use of Trompe L’oeil technique creates moments of discovery and delight for the guests. In true magpie fashion, the wooden benches were covered in eclectic prints of gathered objects, from scissors to coffee cups, continuing to bring joy through the beauty of everyday objects.
You can see every look from the Milan show now at paulsmith.com.
